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Thread: anybody has done a cr-vtec jrsc?

  1. #1
    Inactive Member GreenHornet's Avatar
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    I was wondering if the crv bottom and a gsr top would allow me to run 10psi safely with a blower. Any comments would be great. has anybody done this type of setup?

  2. #2
    1fstGSR
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    Yes and No.
    Sure you could run 10psi of boost if you had the proper tuning but for how long I dont know because the stock rods are good but any detonation, well you know about that.
    So if you were going to do it I would get some good rods and new forged pistons and then you could forget about it. Just dont take it about 8000 grand because the stroke is so long on that crank.

  3. #3
    Inactive Member GreenHornet's Avatar
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    the reason why I wanted to know is I found a crv block at a local junk yard and would like to do the swap on my integra gsr supercharged. latest turbo mag. has a civic h/b with a b20-vtec and was able to pump 360 to the wheel on a stock block. I know the sidewall will hold and the rods are very strong. The block that I was going to get has a 8.8 compression. Good for force induction. I don't plan to go over 8 grand.
    with a blower going 10psi. I know most of you are pumping 8psi on a stock b18c safely. So, 10psi on a stronger block like the b20 would not be a problem.
    What do you guys think? If no one has done this setup then I will be the first. I will let you guys know if I make any crazy power.

    Someone has to be the lab rat.

  4. #4
    Inactive Member Peyomp's Avatar
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    The problem isn't the block. You are right, the B20 cylinder sleeves are the strongest of the B series engines. The problem is the long stroke of the B20 crankshaft and its weak rods (considering that they have to hold the hefty 2 liter pistons). The stroke is just too long for boost, or high rpms.

    If you keep the stock B20 redline then you can boost fine. I wouldn't exceed 7k under boost. Even with the VTEC head. Its the crank and rods that are the liability.

    I am planning to run a JR M62'd B20 at 8psi with stock block and head at the stock 6700 redline... but I am going to have to be damned careful about detonation, and so do you.

  5. #5
    Inactive Member Zeus's Avatar
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    For forced induction, the "pros" use a B17 crank... However, you should be ok at 6700rpm and 8-10 psi... don't forget to open up the head to the bore of the B20 gasket...

    ------------------
    1998' 4dr GSR, 8psi JRSC w/hand ported plenum, 320cc injectors, Cartech adj. FMU, Walbro HP fuel pump, TPS trick in the works, valves set to .005i/.006e, MSD BTM, B&M CommandFlo regulator, stock intake w/ITR "cool air" resinator, Greddy sp exhaust, Tokico Illumina 5-ways, ITR springs, Skunkworks 22mm rear swaybar(removed due to mount torn out at present), ES motor mounts and front swaybar bushings, 205/50WR/15 Kumho Supra 712s, KVR Carbon Fibre pads, Super blue dot 4 brake fluid, B&M fuel pressure gauge, Autometer sport comp A/F gauge in dimmer location
    ...


    YLW 00' Type R #00-1011 with "special tuning" and 143db triple air horns

    Honest officer, I had no idea how fast I was going...the speedometer only gos to 150...

  6. #6
    Inactive Member Peyomp's Avatar
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    Any idea how much one of those B17A cranks costs if you can find one? More than a B20B/Z itself, I suspect.

  7. #7
    Inactive Member GreenHornet's Avatar
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    The cr-vtec would only be good for all motor. Then, if one was to go full blown then I have to destroke the motor to a 1.7 or 1.8 to go high rev.

  8. #8
    Inactive Member SC HYBRID's Avatar
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    ive got a standard ol' b18c1 with 110,000 miles @ 10 psi,i rev the piss out of this thing every day.go with the stock gsr block,they're fine.ive run it to 8400 a bunch of times by accident and no problemo'.

    ------------------
    94 civic EX coupe/b18c1
    JRSC @ 10 psi
    12.7 @ 109

  9. #9
    Inactive Member ZylexSNL's Avatar
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    Arrow

    I'm sure you guys already know about it, but have you looked at CR-Vtec?

    It specifies most of the info you'll need to set up a "B20C5" for either all motor or fi.

    Also, there is a new member, Mark (B20C5 Turbo), who I'm sure can give advice on this subject, too.

    I almost went B20C5. Not enuf time or $$... My Civ is my daily driver.

    Just my $.02

    Peace,
    Steve

    ------------------
    94 Civic EX coupe (195k mi)...
    B18C1 swap: T-minus 3 weeks and counting. biggrin

    mods:
    FastBrakes ITR front brakes,
    2.25" Thermal R&D cat-back,
    94/5 GSR rims,
    DAC short arm intake.

    Future: JRSC @8psi, rear disk swap...

    AIM: L0V2GOFAST (1st "oh" is a zero)
    or ZylexSNL

    [This message has been edited by ZylexSNL (edited March 14, 2001).]

  10. #10
    Inactive Member PSIdreams's Avatar
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    Come on guys! Get your facts right!

    The B20B/Z has the SAME stroke as an LS motor. Fractionally longer than a GSR/ITR motor. Its not a STROKED block, its a bored block using special thin-wall reinforced one piece cyl sleeve instead of individual sleeves (thus thicker) as in the B18s.

    The B20 is a good block. It really is simple a bigger LS motor. The only additional concern vs an LS motor is the pistons. The pistons do not have valve reliefs sizes for VTEC head.

    Please, please check your facts before posting. Mis-information hurts the board!!



    [This message has been edited by PSIdreams (edited March 16, 2001).]

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